I went to the bullfight today and stayed for the entire time despite skyrocketing anxiety levels. I was nervous for the matadors, nervous for the bulls, just a whole bundle a nerves.
Bullfighting is to Spain what baseball is to America, and not only in terms of popularity:
1. Accuracy is essential. If the matador doesn't get a clean stab right in the back of the bull's neck, the crowd boos.
2. Tight pants and tall socks. Only is Spain could a man wear such flamboyant garb and be highly respected...I mean, really, pink socks?
3. Venders selling peanuts and beer.
The very first bullring was built in Ronda (a small town south of Sevilla) in the late 1700s. Bullfighting in Spain is huge, and it is especially associated with Andalusian culture. The event is extremely ritualistic and ceremonial in nature. The matadors (3 in total) enter the stadium with their assistants while the band plays a march anthem. The banderilleros carry pinks capes and take center stage in the beginning of the fight. The bull runs out and charges the banderilleros, who take cover behind the gates. They don't actually do any of the wounding to the bull, and are present until the end.
In the second part of the fight, two picadors enter the stadium on horses and carrying lances. The horses wear protective armor and are blindfolded so they don't know when the bull is going to ram into them. When this happens, the picador jabs the bull. The crowd whistles in disapproval if he wounds the bull too much. Next the banderilleros stab the bull with banderillas (brightly adorned, barbed sticks). These are put in the bull's shoulders, so as to lower its head, eventually giving the matador a better shot at it. This part of the fight made me particularly nervous, as they had no protection at all. The bull and banderillero run at each other and he jabs the bull and runs away.
The bull is considerably injured and very bloody at this point. The matador begins the last phase, in which he tries to gracefully work with the bull and red cape with ballet-like passes. There are multiple manoeuvres with varying degrees of difficulty (i.e. having one knee on the ground, or taking the sword out of the cape so the target is smaller). When the matador is doing a good job, the crowd yells "Ole!" with each pass. After a few minutes of getting the crowd riled up, the matador lines up the bull for the kill. If done correctly, the bull dies almost instantly, because the sword goes right into its aorta.
The first matador was horrendous. I think they went in order of least to most experienced, because the picador wounded the first bull the most. It was really sad. You could see the bull trying to breathe, which obviously got progressively harder. The bull almost died before the matador even stabbed it. The matador went in for the kill, but didn't get the sword in all the way, so the bull was still on the verge of death. It was lying on the ground, and someone else had to keep stabbing it with a dagger before it finally died. Much blood was spilled, I think I even cried (Did I just admit to that?) Who knew I had a soft spot for animals? haha My roommate and another friend Marisa left after the horses came out to drag the bull away, they were quite distraught.
I will say I am glad I stuck it out until the end. The second and third matadors were much more of a treat to watch, and proved bullfighting takes grace and courage. After the first bull, I thought "Where is the sport in this?" All I felt were the overflowing testosterone levels. After watching the rest, I realized the craft and precision involved. The crowd waves white flags or scarves if the matador did well, then the matador proceeds to parade around the stadium, often receiving a Spanish rose or two. It's amazing that bullfighting is still going on today, not just because of ethical reasons, but because the entire ceremony, from the march anthem to the ornate costumes to the armor-clad horses, puts you a few centuries back. I'm surprised PETA members haven't been dispatched to protest such an event, but culture is culture, and it's difficult if not impossible to judge.
No comments:
Post a Comment